Quantity: 
Braking

When the first ACRs were introduced in 1994, their competent braking system was a pleasant surprise to the racers who bought them. At that time, I was racing two different Hondas, but my first few laps in the prototype ACR Chrysler had provided me with these two observations. The first was that this new SOHC 2-liter motor had great torque under 5,000 rpm. The second was how quickly I could bring this 2,300-lb car to a stop. I wasn’t expecting great braking, since the Hondas I had been racing weighed less than 1,900 lbs. But I was so comfortable and impressed with the handling and braking of the ACR that I chose my first race in the car to be North Carolina’s dangerous Chimney Rock Hillclimb. That level of confidence in a car and its braking system can really help you get the extra few tenths of a second required to put a driver on the podium. Since then, I have raced many other cars, a few with better brakes, but most with systems that required much tweaking in order to give you the level of confidence necessary to master threshold braking.

My favorite braking story takes me back to the 2000 Weatherly Hillclimb. I wasn’t planning to go (too many broken racecars – too little time for repairs), but I received a call informing me that if I came, the promoter would have a car waiting for me. I gathered up my racing gear and was on the road less than 30 minutes after the call, thanks to a very tolerant wife. When I arrived, I found a Shelby Cobra in the pits waiting for me. For those who are not familiar with the venue, hillclimbs are high-speed SCCA Solo I events that require the same level of preparation as road racing, but the danger is inherently greater. On average, nearly 5 percent of the cars that enter on Saturday morning end up wrecked by Sunday afternoon.

So there I was, sitting in the Cobra at the starting line staring at turn one, which is a blind 70+ mph sweeper. When the green light came on, I was on the throttle with a vengeance, spinning the rear wheels, and pitching the car sideways as I accelerated up the 1⁄6-mile straight. Did I mention that the asphalt was wet from a morning rain? Second gear produced even more torque than I anticipated, and the car again pitched to the side. I was told later that the owner of the car, having seen that, asked the promoter: “Are you sure Ancas knows what he is doing?” But as I got closer to turn one, knowing that I had to rely on 40-year-old braking technology (the car was running in a vintage class – no mods allowed), I thought to myself: “Let’s see, this car is worth $200,000, and right now I have $200 in my checking account, so I’d better get on the brakes early.” It’s a good thing I did, as I ended up having to use both feet to slow down the car just enough to slide it through the turn. By the end of the day, I had a better feel for the brakes, but still had to use both feet. My times were good enough to beat all of the vintage drivers that had raced on that hill for the past 30 years. But the next time I went to Weatherly with a high-horsepower car (turbocharged 1996 2-door Neon ACR), I was over seven seconds faster on this one-mile long, six-turn hill! The Speednation Neon didn’t have more horsepower than the Cobra, but what it did have was great brakes, and that made all the difference.

Even when a Neon’s horsepower is increased by 50 to 100 percent, the stock brakes still work great. I still use stock brake pads and rotors, despite the fact that brake manufacturers are always trying to send me free brake components. However, there are several situations that dictate when you should upgrade your brake system listed below. If you decide to do so, the aftermarket brake market is filled with great items that will not only look great on your car, but will stop it even faster. On the other hand, just because there are fancy brake parts available, it doesn’t mean that you have to buy them.

If you have a budget for your project, then some of the modifications mentioned in this book other than braking should take precedence in terms of both your time and money. We’re certainly not advocating that the brake system should be ignored; on the contrary. You should check your fluid level often, and your entire system should be flushed every two to three years to avoid moisture buildup. Moisture in your brake lines can increase your stopping distance and lead to corrosion on the inside of your brake components and lines. Calipers and pads need to be checked yearly, and rotors should be cut whenever new pads are installed or replaced if they are too worn or warped. But beyond this routine maintenance schedule, you should consider sticking with the original braking system. As I mentioned above, there are at least two instances in which brake upgrades are recommended.



High-performance and racing brake pads, like these from Hawk, can be a good upgrade, depending on what type of racing you’re doing. However, they’ll probably generate more brake dust and wear out your stock rotors faster than stock replacement pads.

Road Racing

The first thing that most novice drivers realize after finishing their first event is just how brutal road racing can be on a car and its components. Any time you abuse your brakes, such as in road racing, track events, or driver’s schools, an upgrade is required. The heat that can be generated from constant high-speed racing has been known to melt a wheel’s center cap, warp a rotor, boil brake fluid, or even turn a brake pad into dust. As stated before, Neons have excellent stock braking systems, so all that may be needed is to change to a performance brake pad. I recommend Hawk blue pads in front, and Hawk street pads in the rear. You’ll also need to completely replace your brake fluid after each event due to the heat build-up. We recommend using a fully synthetic brake fluid with as high a boiling point that you can find. Also, the harder the pad you choose, the more your rotors will be abused. Obviously, something has to give. If you use a stock pad, you probably won’t wear out your rotors, but if you use a hard racing pad, you will cut a three-inch groove in your rotors.



The Neon’s front disc brakes feature vented rotors, which help dissipate heat better than solid rotors. Aren’t you glad you don’t have to go out and buy rotors like this as an upgrade?

Recently, I performed an impromptu pad and rotor test. I was on my way to Virginia International Raceway (VIR) to participate in a high-speed Solo I event. However, my friend Glenn and I never made it. We instead stopped at Summit Point Raceway and entered a driver’s school. The cost for the VIR Solo I was $125 and that would net only about 30 minutes of track time, while the driver’s school cost $350 and would provide over two hours of track time. The choice was obvious, but there was one problem. My Showroom Stock Neon was prepped for a Solo I, not a road race. The brake pads were brand new, but were stock. Could these pads withstand that much abuse? Since I didn’t have any spare pads with me, I decided to take it a little easy so that the pads and tires would last the weekend. That strategy only held up for as long as it took for the first Spec Miata to pass me on the inside of the braking zone in turn one. My assigned running group consisted of three SSC cars, two IT cars, and 23 Spec Miatas. The Miatas did have better brakes, but that was the last time I let a Miata pass me under braking. I did leave that weekend with two different shades of Miata paint on my Neon’s butt, but I also left with fully functional brake pads. Granted, they were nearly worn out, but they lasted an entire weekend. My friend Dave, who races a modified GTi, had to change his expensive pads halfway through the event. Of course, expensive race pads will stop your racecar faster, but make sure you bring along an extra set – along with spare rotors and fluid.



Turbo cars tend to carry a lot more speed into a turn as opposed to a normally aspirated Neon. An SRT-4’s braking system has taken that into consideration, but if you add a turbo to a regular Neon, you may want to consider upgrading the brakes. (Photo courtesy Keith Bower)



SRT-4s have better brakes than regular Neons straight from the factory. Check out this heavy-duty caliper making itself known behind the stock SRT-4 wheel. They’re fine for the street, but for serious racing, an upgrade may be in order.
Table of Contents:

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PDF HTML Table of Contents
PDF HTML Introduction
PDF HTML Chapter 1 Neon History
PDF HTML Chapter 2 Suspension and Handling
PDF HTML Chapter 3 Wheels and Tires
PDF HTML Chapter 4 Braking
PDF HTML Chapter 5 Intake System
PDF HTML Chapter 6 Exhaust System
PDF HTML Chapter 7 Ignition and Fuel
PDF HTML Chapter 8 Camshafts and Heads
PDF HTML Chapter 9 Body and Interior Modifications
PDF HTML Chapter 10 Turbocharging, Supercharging, and Nitrous
PDF HTML Chapter 11 Transaxle Tech
PDF HTML Chapter 12 Engines
PDF HTML Chapter 13 Modifications on a Budget
PDF HTML Chapter 14 Don't Just Sit There - Go Racing!
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