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Don’t Just Sit There –
Go Racing!



Your Neon wants to go racing. If it could talk, it would tell you straight out, but since it can’t, we’ll tell you. You’re probably driving the best bang-for-the-buck racecar on the planet, but until you get off the couch and stop watching NASCAR and F1 on TV, you won’t know what you are missing. (Photo courtesy Gil Diaz)

Solo II Autocross

Autocross is a very popular form of amateur racing in which ordinary people like you and I can participate. Participation has nearly doubled since the SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) introduced several new classes that allowed for common modifications that most import enthusiasts perform. The only special equipment you will need is a vehicle (even pickup trucks qualify), a helmet (usually can be borrowed at the event), a seat belt (no way around this one), a driver’s license, and a brain (at times, optional).



Autocross is just one of the great racing opportunities that await you and your Neon. Solo II is inexpensive and low risk, and won’t damage your car. It’s a great car-control classroom that can help prepare you for high-speed racing. (Photo courtesy Bob Killmer)

Solo II competition usually involves a group of people (usually part of a club) who get together on Sundays (sometimes Saturdays too) to race their cars around parking lots following a course laid out in orange pylons. The cost: about $15 to $20 on the average. For that money you get three to five laps around the course, plus some fun runs (depending on the club). Timing devices keep track of how long it takes you to complete the course. The quickest times win. Sounds kind of stupid? In a way, it is, but it’s also great fun.



Just do it. Don’t wait for your car to be perfect. Don’t wait for that new suspension or head. Just take your Neon to an autocross now. A little more prep and experience is needed for track events, but there are entry-level track events put on by both NASA and the SCCA that don’t require a roll cage or a driver’s suit.

The best way to get involved in autocrossing is to get a schedule of events in your area. If you don’t know where to turn, go to Speednation and e-mail us and we’ll tell you. Most local SCCA regions also have websites, or you can go to SCCA.org. Then just go out and do it! Don’t wait until you have your Neon perfectly set up. Chances are, if you’ve never been autocrossing, but are preparing a Neon to race, you’ll likely make some stupid mistakes that you’ll regret later. Just go – even with the Neon you’re driving to work right now. Even if you don’t currently have a Neon and you’re reading this book to get some ideas as to which model you should buy, take out your current car, even if it’s a beater. You may find a Neon racer for sale at the event or within the SCCA racing network that’s ready to race, for a price less than what you could buy all the go-fast parts for.

Here are a few pointers to make your first event go more smoothly. Take the fuzzy dice down from your rear view mirror, clean out the interior so that there is nothing on the floor or seats that can fly around, leave your hubcaps and floor mats at home, and stop by the gas station along the way to get some extra air in your front tires. Heavier cars like Mustangs, T-birds, or K-cars on DOT-approved street tires should start with at least 45 psi, but lighter cars (like Neons) only need about 35 psi. Rear tire pressures should be around 30 psi. When you get to the event, ask someone at registration to hook you up with someone who’s also running a Neon so they can give you further advice on what pressures to use. Don’t worry about having to run against a new Corvette Z06 with your little pocket rocket. The SCCA has an excellent grouping of classes that, for the most part, offer a fair and level playing field. But believe it or not, on a local level, much of the time a Neon will be quicker than a Corvette.





Hillclimbs are also part of SCCA’s Solo I program. Depending on the region and the class, an SCCA legal roll bar may be sufficient, but a driver’s suit and Snell helmet are required.

There are five main levels of vehicle preparation. The Stock class allows beefier shocks, struts, ignition wires, coil, race tires, and not much else. If you just bought a cool set of rims, a fancy driver’s seat, or a slick Momo steering wheel, you’ll likely be bumped into Street Prepared. This class allows suspension mods (including lowering), any size wheel, and many of the things outlined in this book. Add a hot cam (even if you do nothing else) and you are instantly in Prepared. This class allows almost everything, except putting a rotary engine in a Spitfire. That’ll land you into the Modified class.



Table of Contents:

Click below to view samples pages from each chapter

PDF HTML Table of Contents
PDF HTML Introduction
PDF HTML Chapter 1 Neon History
PDF HTML Chapter 2 Suspension and Handling
PDF HTML Chapter 3 Wheels and Tires
PDF HTML Chapter 4 Braking
PDF HTML Chapter 5 Intake System
PDF HTML Chapter 6 Exhaust System
PDF HTML Chapter 7 Ignition and Fuel
PDF HTML Chapter 8 Camshafts and Heads
PDF HTML Chapter 9 Body and Interior Modifications
PDF HTML Chapter 10 Turbocharging, Supercharging, and Nitrous
PDF HTML Chapter 11 Transaxle Tech
PDF HTML Chapter 12 Engines
PDF HTML Chapter 13 Modifications on a Budget
PDF HTML Chapter 14 Don't Just Sit There - Go Racing!
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